John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 23 Afternoon

When I woke up on Great Dun Fell this morning the fog was as thick as it had been the night before. And it continued that way. I had the last of my food, a tin of beans and sausage for breakfast, and then at about eleven decided I had to make a move.

I packed up the tent and then started to test out the different paths/tracks that had bewildered me the night before. Then, out of the fog loomed four figures. I tried to keep the desparate whine out of my voice as I asked them if they were on the Pennine Way.

They were, and they were able to guide me onto the right track. Did I mention there's a top secret radar installation on top of Great Dun Fell? Anyway, there is. And all I had to do was follow the perimeter fence till I found the tarmac road and follow it downhill. It would be signposted all the way to Dufton.

It wasn't quite as easy as that but it wasn't that difficult either. I got almost lost a couple of more times before I got below the fog just after one in the afternoon and it was downhill and sunshine all the way to Dufton.

I arrived in Dufton at two thirty to find that the Stag, the only pub, stopped doing food at two and didn't start again until six.

OK, I thought I'll get some food from the shop. The shop was closed and had been, the lady next door advised me, since November. Mmm, echoes of Garrigill.

Then the lady offered to make me a pot of tea and a sandwich. Result.

I was enjoying my tea at the table outside the shop when I was joined by two other ladies who were boycotting the pub because on their last visit the landlord had been rude about the effect their muddy boots were having on his brand new ten thousand pound carpet.

Soon there were four of us sitting with our tea outside the defunct shop. This attracted the attention of the pub which was just across the tiny village green. I hope I haven't started a feud.

My new buddies were doing a quiz about famous women and we had fun with that for a while. Then my brother Willie called to say that since I was going to be passing his part of the country, York, he wanted to meet up and go a couple of miles with me. Cool.

I was sorry to see my quiz buddies go in the end. (If any of you read this do drop me a line.) When they left I walked the few yards to the Youth Hostel and waited till five and signed in.

The evening meal is a seven. Perfect.