John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 25 Evening

When I mentioned to the campsite owner at Middleton-in-Teesdale that I was going from John O'Groats to Lands End he gave me my four quid back. Result. So that was a nice start to the day.

At the Conduit Cafe where I had breakfast they have a Pennine Way Walkers visitors book. That made for interesting reading. I wrote a few lines including a plug for the blog and the Edinburgh show.

It has been another great day for running. Not as hot as yesterday, more overcast and even drizzly at times, but still great. And I only got lost a couple of times. It was pretty boggy in places but I think I'm getting used to that.

Eighteen miles in and just before seven in the evening I reached the Tan Hill Inn. Remember, the double glazing ad, the highest pub in Britain. I chugged down four Mars Bars instead of stopping for a meal. But the pub was pretty cute and I did have a lovely cup of tea before jogging the last four, mostly downhill, miles into the little village of Keld.

I bought a couple of things at the campsite shop and pitched my tent so I'm all set for the night.

I'm a bit concerned about my progress. This is day 25 and I don't think I'm quite halfway yet. And I'm doing twenty odd miles a day rather than thirty plus. I mean I'm not desperately worried but it would be nice to have a fair amount of breathing space before the Edinburgh Festival starts. Still that's not till August 8th.

Whatever, no worries.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 24 Evening

I had a lovely evening meal last night of tagliatelle with a mushroom and cream sauce at the Youth Hostel in Dufton. Fanastic. Great company too. Including a couple who are doing Lands End to John O'Groats in instalments. So our paths were crossing about half way.

It had taken me two days to cover the twenty miles from Ashton to Dufton due to getting lost and fogbound etcetera so I was tempted to take to the road this morning just to get some miles done.

But at the last minute I changed my mind and decided to stay on the Pennine Way as being more in the spirit of the thing. Anyway, I'm glad I did. Today was one of the best days so far. Sunshine all day and I was feeling good so most of the 21 miles from Dufton to
Middleton-in-Teesdale were running miles. The terrain was varied, the route clear and some of the scenery stunning. The great glacial gouge of High Cup Nick is just astounding.

I've just had a steak and ale pie with chips and mushy peas in a hotel here and in a minute I'm going to look for the campsite.

I've burned my shoulders by running with my shirt off this afternoon. Otherwise I'm as fit as a fiddle.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 23 Afternoon

When I woke up on Great Dun Fell this morning the fog was as thick as it had been the night before. And it continued that way. I had the last of my food, a tin of beans and sausage for breakfast, and then at about eleven decided I had to make a move.

I packed up the tent and then started to test out the different paths/tracks that had bewildered me the night before. Then, out of the fog loomed four figures. I tried to keep the desparate whine out of my voice as I asked them if they were on the Pennine Way.

They were, and they were able to guide me onto the right track. Did I mention there's a top secret radar installation on top of Great Dun Fell? Anyway, there is. And all I had to do was follow the perimeter fence till I found the tarmac road and follow it downhill. It would be signposted all the way to Dufton.

It wasn't quite as easy as that but it wasn't that difficult either. I got almost lost a couple of more times before I got below the fog just after one in the afternoon and it was downhill and sunshine all the way to Dufton.

I arrived in Dufton at two thirty to find that the Stag, the only pub, stopped doing food at two and didn't start again until six.

OK, I thought I'll get some food from the shop. The shop was closed and had been, the lady next door advised me, since November. Mmm, echoes of Garrigill.

Then the lady offered to make me a pot of tea and a sandwich. Result.

I was enjoying my tea at the table outside the shop when I was joined by two other ladies who were boycotting the pub because on their last visit the landlord had been rude about the effect their muddy boots were having on his brand new ten thousand pound carpet.

Soon there were four of us sitting with our tea outside the defunct shop. This attracted the attention of the pub which was just across the tiny village green. I hope I haven't started a feud.

My new buddies were doing a quiz about famous women and we had fun with that for a while. Then my brother Willie called to say that since I was going to be passing his part of the country, York, he wanted to meet up and go a couple of miles with me. Cool.

I was sorry to see my quiz buddies go in the end. (If any of you read this do drop me a line.) When they left I walked the few yards to the Youth Hostel and waited till five and signed in.

The evening meal is a seven. Perfect.

John O'Groats to Lands End -Day 22 Evening

I started the day in a real Lands-End Here-I-Come kind of a mood. I had a lovely breakfast in the Youth Hostel at Alston in very convivial company. We had a lively discussion about modern sculpture among other things.

I got going about ten thirty and ran along the river the five or so miles down to Garrigill. At eleven fifty I arrived in this tiny settlement where the pub opens only four days a week for five months of the year. As chance would have it, it was ten minutes till opening time so I waited and had a cup of tea. Pretty quiet pub the George and Dragon.

I continued out of Garrigill on towards Cross Fell with some nice uphill running. I managed to lose the path for a while and by the time I found it again I had missed Cross Fell. I know, how can you miss the highest mountain in England outside the Peak District. I just did, OK.

Anyway, I continued along a paved section of the track (hard to get lost) to Little Dun Fell. And then the mist came down like the final curtain. Within minutes visibility was down to yards. This was about six o'clock.

I stayed where I was on the summit of Little Dun Fell for a bit but it didn't look like clearing. Not long after that, by coincidence, one of my breakfast companions happened along. He had just come from the direction I was headed and was able to guide me to the next peak. So I got as far as Great Dun Fell but then the paved section of the track ended and without sight of any other significant landmarks I wasn't getting any further.

About seven thirty I decided to wait it out till morning and pitched the tent right by the track.

I have food and plenty of water and I am warm enough in my sleeping bag.

I'm sure the fog will have cleared by morning and I can head on down to Dufton.

No worries.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 21 Evening

On the wall in reception at the Youth Hostel in Alston, which is where I staying tonight, there is a big map of Britain and, though I am trying real hard, I cannot convince myself that Alston is anywhere near half way down. Have a look yourself.

After a long run of hot weather today was cooler. Overcast in the morning when I set out from the campsite in Greenhead after a quick Mars Bar breakfast. Then drizzly in the afternoon after a functional lunch of beans, cold from the can.

And Northumberland is soggy enough quite frankly. If Britain was a bed Northumberland would be the wet patch. What a soggy, boggy wet place.

But I'm in Cumbria now and Alston in Cumbria has red squirrels. I even saw one. Then I saw a sign which gave a number to call if you see any grey squirrels. That's right, if you see a grey squirrel you're supposed to grass it up.

When I arrived in Alston at about 6pm after 18 miles of being lost in a bog I had had enough. By the way, have you ever tried to run in a bog? I know, I'm whinging.

Anyway, I went straight into the Cumberland Hotel and, remembering last evening's feast, ordered lasagne. Well it was very nice but with the little side salad and a little roll just NOT BIG ENOUGH. So I followed it with lemon cheesecake and ice cream, again very nice but NOT BIG ENOUGH!

So I'm sitting in the Youth Hostel topping up with chocolate bars

Highlight of the day was the little old lady who ran the campsite in Greenhead. I paid her my four pounds on coins and then as we chatted she started giving it back to me. I mentioned I had come all the way from John O'Groats and she slipped me a quid for that. When I said I
had eaten in the Hotel the night before she made me take another quid back, "because everything is so expensive." Not her campsite, it's not. I had to scarper before she ended up making a loss.

My trekking pants have developed a sweat stain which makes it look as though I have pissed myself. They are in the washing machine right now but it has been an embarrassing couple of days.

I'm looking forward to a night in a comfortable bed. I've ordered porridge and the veggie breakfast for tomorrow morning. I think the Belly Busters might have been slowing me down. Although I'm fairly sure I haven't lost any weight yet.

Later, amigos.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 20 Evening

Yesteday afternoon it took me 6 hours to do the 15 miles from Byrness to Bellingham. In Bellingham there was no sit down food to be had after 9. Had to settle for sausage and chips takeaway.

I paid five quid to camp at Demesne Farm campsite and found out next morning it was another 50p for a 6 minute shower. What did I get for my five quid?

Belly Buster breakfast at the Caff in the Library at Bellingham. Followed it with cheesecake and ice cream. It was after noon when I eventually got on the road.

Trekked thirteen and a half miles south to Hadrian's Wall. Hard going with the Belly Buster on board, alternatively soggy or rocky or heathery underfoot, and the route was all chopping and changing. I just couldn't get it going.

At Hadrian's Wall all of that changed. The food was digested, the route was easier to follow and the views were stunning as I ran along the northern frontier of the Roman Empire.

There was nobody else in sight and I felt like a wild Pict having a look around the day after the legionaries went back to Rome.

Nine thirty when I arrived at Greenhead pretty beat. Kitchen closed at the Greenhead Hotel but they managed to put together a big plate of lasagne and veg.

I think there's a campsite in town.

More later.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 19 Lunchtime

Injury Update: left foot has been perfect for a few days now except for a recent blister on the sole, right foot is about 95% and getting better, slight sunburn to face, arms and legs - haha.

Getting lost last night meant that I had no food for supper or breakfast. It took me three hours to cross the wild and soggy Northumbrian moors between Chew Green and Byrness so by the time I reached The Filling Station Cafe "The First and Last in England" I was ready for the big breakfast. It's a measure of my hunger that I actually ate the black pudding.

O yeah, I crossed the border into England last night at about 9pm. Where I crossed, the frontier was just a farm gate. There was no guard or customs or anything, this was the middle of nowhere in the Cheviot Hills after all, but the Northumbrian Council must have known I was coming because they had left a note advising me that countryside access legislation is different in England from what it is in Scotland. I think they were referring to my wild camping habits.
Anyway, they ended by wishing me a pleasant day on the hills so thanks for that.

I've just followed the black pudding breakfast with a bit of rather soggy cheesecake. Very soggy place Northumbria. Thank goodness it isn't raining.

Almost 1.30pm and I'm about to stock up with food and water and do the 15 miles between here and Bellingham.

See ya later!

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 18 Bedtime

After leaving Morebattle this afternoon I had intended to follow St Cuthbert's Way to Yetholm for the start of the Pennine Way going south.

Anyway, I missed a turning and lost St Cuthbert. Without a proper map, I know, I know, I couldn't find it again. I did, however, with the help of the old Roman road Dere Street, trip over the Pennine way and I now find that I am a good bit further on than I would have been
had I not got lost in the first place.

I'm camped on the Pennine Way at Chew Green a kind of old Roman settlement not far north of Byrness where I'm hoping to get breakfast in the morning.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 18

Up and away at just after 6am this morning and, yes, I had been camped just down the hill from Maxton Kirk.

The early start did not make for good mileage. Struggling all day to keep it going, stopped three times to have a sleep by the path.

Also struggling to find food. After breakfast of Mars bar and a tin of beans and sausage no shops until three in the afternoon when I reached the tiny little town of Morebattle with an empty belly and an empty waterbag. And this on the hottest day so far, real scorchio.

It's 4.30 and I've just eaten at the pub in Morebattle. Better get going again.

More later.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 17 Night

After tea at the Clovenfords Hotel some nice running through a hot afternoon on to Galashiels and Melrose where I had a very frustrating time trying to find some cheesecake. In the end I had to settle for a caramel slice - can you believe it?

Anyway, at Melrose I got onto St Cuthbert's Way which is pretty cool, though I did have some navigation issues which slowed me down.

I'm now in my tent in a wood just outside Maxton, I think. I'll find out tomorrow.

'Night, folks.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 17 Early Afternoon

It just came on to rain. More often than not I would keep running through it but I felt like a break so I've stopped for a pot of tea at the Clovenfords Hotel, Clovenford. Not having anything to eat. The Whistle Stop breakfast, wonderful though of was, made for slow progress this morning and I'm only really getting up to speed now. I'll just have the tea then batter on along to Galashiels and Melrose.

Was getting philosophical before the rain came on.

Endurance running is a thing of the body, mind and spirit, the trinity of self. The trinity of wholeness and health. That is the revelation of running, that these three things are the same.

Run well, my brothers and sisters. Run the Road to Endorphia and hear the jingling, joyful laughter of the cosmos.

I am simply buzzing with endorphins today. What a blast.

Clovenfords Hotel has tourist music playing; a high blown, swollen, positively gouty version of the Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond. It's hilarious.

On the wall opposite is a Victorian print of musket wielding highlanders fighting in the Crimea. Outside is a big statue of Sir Walter Scott. For some reason it's all incredibly funny.

These are some good endorphins.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 17 Morning

A good night's sleep in the tent by the river Tweed and a short bleary-eyed walk took me to the Whistle Stop Cafe and Flower Shop in Innerleithen where I have just finished the Big Breakfast (2 eggs, 2 sausages, double bacon, mushrooms, beans and an malevolent looking circle of black pudding which I left on the plate - and toast and coffee).

The name of the Chinese takeaway opposite is called Happy Days. This, for some reason, touches me and I am close to tears and as happy as I have ever been in my life. Even the evil eye of the black pudding is part of the perfection of the universe.

The lunchtime special here at the Whistle Stop is lentil soup and strawberry cheesecake. I think about cheesecake while I sup my second cup of coffee and listen to Bob Dylan and the relaxed and cheerful chatter of the other patrons.

More later.

John O'Groats to Lands End Day 16 Evening

Altogether a lovely day. I left Carluke at about ten thirty and headed south and east along A-roads towards Peebles and the Scottish Borders.

Quieter roads than yesterday and much more rural. Grazing sheep, cows, some horses, llamas, yep quite a few, and one very clean pig.

Sometimes the road was lined with very old native British trees, sycamore, beech, horse chestnut.

I had started on Weetabix and banana and kept going the thirty miles to Peebles on a tin of beans and sausage and five Mars Bars bought at the Co-op in Carnwath.

Apart from a quick pot of tea at the Nestlers in Newbigging and a twenty minute sleep by the side of the road five miles outside of Peebles it was pretty much all go until I reached there.

I want to try as far as possible to get 35 miles a day so after a takeaway pie and chips eaten on a park bench I left Peebles behind and headed along the Innerleithing Road for another five miles.

I got that done and now I'm in my tent, pitched by the side of the path in a kind of riverside walk. Not a great spot but the best I could find.

There was a feeble attempt at rain there just as it turned dark, but it wasn't very convincing. I hope it's dry again tomorrow.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 15 Evening

I spent a large part of Day 13 and Day 14 laying on my mum's couch with my right foot wrapped in a packet of frozen peas. Most athletes keep a couple of packets of frozen peas in the freezer to treat injuries bacause a packet of frozen peas will mould itself to any body part unlike, for example, a packet of frozen yorkshire puddings.

But today I got up and after porridge and banana packed my bag and headed into Glasgow to take up where I left off.

Today was a run through the greater glasgow/lanarkshire conurbation. Central Glasgow, over the river to the south side, Gorbals, Govanhill, Cathcart, Toryglen, Rutherglen, Cambuslang, Halfway (halfway to where?), Blantyre, Burnbank, Hamilton, Motherwell, Craigneuk, Wishaw, Bogside, Carluke. That's not far short of 25 miles. I really enjoyed this run in the sunshine through the streets of my childhood and youth. These are the places my family comes from, where many of them still live. I'm glad my run included these places. The country isn't knitted from bits and pieces of long distance walking routes.

I'm staying in Carluke tonight at my sister Liz's place.

Tomorrow I'm heading on road toward Peebles and the next day on to Melrose where I can pick up St Cuthbert's Way which will take me on to the Pennine Way starting at Kirk Yetholm.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 12 Evening

Yesterday after scoffing a delicious vanilla cheesecake at the Rowardennan Hotel I continued jogging down Loch Lomondside in warm sunshine.

Arriving at Balmaha just before five I found the village shop closed. The best I could do for provisions was five Mars Bars from the Oak Inn next door.

Then up and over the challenge of Conic Hill. The last time I crossed Conic Hill was in the face of a cold wet wind-driven rain, my feet slipping and splashing over the cold soggy ground. This time was a long hot tough climb round the shoulder of the hill followed by a fun risky tumbling jog down the other side. You never climb the same hill twice.

Beyond Conic Hill it was through the forest and then past Drymen where, come eight thirty, I decided it was time to call it a day and stopped at a campsite.

I woke at four this morning to the sound of rain. I dozed on and off until nine and it never let up. It was raining all the time I was packing up and it rained from the time I got going at ten all the way down the road to Milngavie where I bought two scotch pies from a bakers shop and ate them standing in the rain. And it rained all the way down the Maryhill Road into Glasgow.

Somehow the rain had penetrated my waterproof defences by crawling over the waistband of my waterproof trousers. My trekking pants were wet. My running shorts were wet. My leggings were wet. I was wet through to the soggy marrow of my miserable bones.

I sat at a bus stop on Sauchiehall Street and became aware that the rain had stopped and the sun had come out.

The good news is that I'm now about quarter of the way to Lands End. My left foot is back to normal and my right foot is getting there. I've been going for 12 days and I've come not far short of 300 miles. That's about 25 miles a day. I projected 35 miles a day but I had to contend with two injured feet so I'm still well pleased and expect that daily average to increase.

I'm at my mum's now where I'll be taking a break for a day or two. I'll be back on the road Friday or Saturday heading further south.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 11 Lunchtime

I had a long break at Paddy's Bar at Tyndrum yesterday but was raring to go when I left at about four in the afternoon. I powered on down past Strathfillan Wigwams without stopping for one of their sausages on a roll. And then through the forest and past the turnoff for Crianlarich and suddenly it was eight in the evening and I had a quick stop for a cup of tea in the bar at Beinglas Farm.

And then further till I reached the broad still waters of Loch Lomond shining like hope. And further still along the loch's wild and rocky west bank till it was ten o'clock and I pitched my tent in an almost flat patch of grass just off the track.

After a dry and comfortable night I rose early this morning to the worst midgie swarming of my life. Thousands of the evil little bastards crawled all over my face and neck and hands as I struck the tent and packed up. If it wasn't for Jungle Formula insect spray I would have been bitten to a pulp.

The midges mostly don't bother you while you are on the move so I hiked the couple of miles to the Inversnaid Hotel and had breakfast out of a tin sitting on a bench.

It has been one of those damp overcast midgie plagued mornings and my energy has been quite low jogwalking through Rowerdennan Forest. There are more people around than I've seen any day so far including, celebrity alert, James Michie off of Taggart strolling through the forest with three of his mates.

It's almost two in the afternoon now and I've just finished the Ben Lomond Burger in the Rowardennan Hotel. Looking outside the sky seems to be clearing and the sun is trying to make its presence felt.

I think I'll have some cheesecake before I make a move though.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 10 Afternoon

Yesterday afternoon after a long break at Kingshouse I headed across wild Rannoch Moor. It's a long road but it was a good run and by the time I was getting near the end it was about seven thirty and I was trying to decide whether to stop at the free campsite at Victoria Bridge or push on over the hill to Bridge of Orchy.

Then a crackling thunder ripped the sky open and it began to pour down. I picked up the pace for the last mile to Victoria Bridge and put my tent up in a relentless rain.

Everything was wet apart from my sleeping bag and air matress and my shirt and pants. All night I lay still hoping I wouldn't roll over in my sleep and soak my sleeping bag on the wet floor of the tent. I mean the floor was wet, there were little puddles.

But this morning was good. I had managed to stay dry and my feet felt good. I mean really good. Not fixed but definitely on the mend and ready for running.

The rain stayed off for long enough to let me towel dry the inside of the tent and I got going over the hill.

At Bridge of Orchy I decided that the hotel was too posh for breakfast and jogwalked on to Tyndrum where I've just had a mega double bacon cheeseburger with chips, coleslaw and salad at Paddy's Bar. £7.50 - bargain.

It's well into the afternoon now so I better finish my tea and head out to get the miles done.

More later.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 9 Lunchtime

Got up early and was on the go by 6.30 through a warm clear morning across Larrig Mor to Kinlochleven. Once the stiffness was out of my feet I did some nice running.

Then the long climb down into Kinlochleven where I bought bug spray and chocolate and the longer climb back out onto the mountain pass. And then running some sweet miles as far as the Devil's Staircase where of started to rain half way down.

I got to the Kingshouse after three and have been lunching on cheesecake, ice cream and Irn Bru.

I'm gonna leave soon and head across Rannoch Moor.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 8

Was feeling low last night, lying in my tiny cold tent with two busted feet nothing to eat but the emergency honey and rain forecast for the next five days.

I tried to lift myself up with some music. Joni Mitchell is great and will lift you way up high if you are a little bit high already, "and the sun poured in like butterscotch and stuck to all my senses".

But the sun was down and I was about as far from a Chelsea Morning as it was possible to be. So I turned to Blind Willie Johnson, the great old gospel bluesman, and let John the Revelator make a temporary believer out of me. Then the battery ran out of juice.

This morning I woke up up hear the rain pattering on the roof. When it stopped about ten I decided to get up while the going was good and make move.

I packed up my soaking wet tent and got going. And the sun was out. And, despite the forecast, it stayed out and the rest of the day was warm and dry.

It's a long drag from Laggan Locks to Fort William with no place to get food. I got there about five and bought a whole cooked chicken from Morrisons supermarket for £3.68. Now I know how those birds are kept so that they can be brought to market as cheaply as that and I'm
not making any excuses. I just had to have that protein.

Then I got on the West Highland Way and made the long climb out of Fort William and through the forest. I camped by a stream at the edge of the forest ready to cross the larrig in the morning. A good day.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 7 Evening

Late start today. Walking and running a bit along the side of the Caledonian Canal and Loch Oich. Got a bit further than Laggan Locks but have now stopped to camp. Short day, low mileage. No idea how far I have come.

Now sitting in the sun with my throbbing, injured feet bathing in the chilly waters of the loch.

Beautiful sunny day today.

Kytra Lock Caledonian Canal - Day 7

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 6 Evening

Camped just south of Fort Augustus on a damp patch of ground between the canal and the river.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 5 Evening

Frustrating day. Was so up for running through the terrain at the north end of the Great Glen Way. Legs lungs heart muscles joints, all wanted to play but my left foot just wouldn't ante up and get in the game.

Have pitched my tent, probably illegally, on some Forestry Commission type land. It's a complete shambles, I'm on a slope and the pegs are fixed to what is effectively mulch but I just needed to get the weight off my foot.

I'm up the hill just south of Drumnadrochit. I did something over 15 miles today but haven't got a map so not sure.

Highlight of the day was stopping at the Abriachan Campsite at Wester Laide, the funnest, funniest, funkiest stopping point of any long distance route I've ever travelled. I stopped for coffee but stayed for lunch.

I'll fill in the details later. This has to me quick in case the iPhone battery runs put.

Basically, everything is great except my foot. And even that's great because the pain and frustration are probably teaching me some fine Buddhistic virtue which will come in handy whenever I have real problems.

I can hear the rain pattering on my tent. Mostly dry today, by the way, but not completely.

Signing off now, going to sup on tinned sardines and chocolate.

Yum yum.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 5 Morning

I'm lying in bed in a ten bunk room in a hostel on Rose Street in Inverness. The budget can't handle many more guest house stays.

Anyway, yesterday was pretty gruelling. I was determined to get the 34 miles to Inverness put of the way and see the last of the A9/A99. I'm sure it's the on road running which has done my feet in. Yes, this morning the swelling on my left foot is worse and there's painful swelling on the top of my right instep.

Anyway yesterday morning (day 4) after a cooked breakfast at the guesthouse in Tain I bought a 150 gram bar of chocolate and got going around 10am. I just kept plugging away, walking, having brief rests and short running spells and reached Imverness just after 9pm. I was worn out and hungry and felt no shame at all in scoffing a Big Mac Meal.

My feet may both be swollen and sore but everything else is fantastic. After 120 miles in 4 days my resting heart rate is 44 beats a minute and my muscles and joints feel fine.

Today is the start of the Great Glen Way which will take me to Fort William where I can join the West Highland Way, so that means it's mostly off road all the way to Glasgow.

It's 9am now so I'm going to get up and find some breakfast and get the stiffness out of my feet.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 3 Evening

I'm resting up at a Bed and Breakfast in Tain. I got off the road at 5 in the afternoon after covering about 15 miles, 10 at a run-walk-run and 5 just walking.

The swelling on my left foot hurts. The impact of running is definitely not helping. Walking ain't too good either.

Mostly dry today. Dornoch Firth Bridge pretty impressive. I love running over long bridges. I had to walk this one though.

Lying in bed now hoping my foot heals itself. If I can't run tomorrow I'll walk just to get the miles covered.

Slept earlier and now, just after midnight, I'm watching TV. Also focussing the healing energy of the cosmos on my left foot. Whatever.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 3 Morning

A long soak in a bath at the Stags Head in Golspie is followed by a
good nights sleep and an aggresively carnivorous breakfast.

The twinge in the outside of my left foot just forward of the ankle
has manifested itself as a swollen red bruise. It complains when I
walk. Let it complain. All I'm gonna give it is a tightened shoelace.

I'm packing up now and I should be on the road by just after 10.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 2 Evening

And so I arrive in Golspie which, depending on whether you put your faith in Google Maps, the official road signs or the old Victorian stone waymarker outside the Sutherland Hotel, is either 68, 72 or 73 miles from John O'Groats.

I'm going with the Victorians. They have precedence. And that means I'm averaging 36.5 miles a day so far. Hoo Rah!

Injuries: General muscle soreness in shoulders, back and legs, suspicious twinge in left ankle, significant chafing to lower back and scrotum, sunburnt forehead, blister on sole of left foot.

Mood: Tired but happy

By the way. The sheep aren't staring at me any more. None of them. It's like they're deliberately ignoring me. And I get the feeling they know it's winding me up.

Wooly bastards.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 2

Yesterday I made the daily goal of 35 miles by reaching Latheron, following the A99 all the way. Then at about 9.30pm tiredness and a lack of a suitable place to camp led me to wimp out and put up at a B and B.

And I'm glad I did. Alan Tanner who owns the Old Manse guest house made me a big cheese and tomato sandwich which I ate in the kitchen with a pot of tea while I chatted with Mr and Mrs Tanner.

Ten hours sleep and breakfast of porridge, poached eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, toast, fruit juice, coffee and I was ready to go again.

I'm in Helmsdale now having done the 19 miles from Latheron mostly in the pissing rain.

I'm having lunch of Cornish pastie, chips and beans. I'm 55 miles from John O'Groats and 15 miles short of Golspie which is pretty much my destination today. It's only 3.30 so I'm doing pretty good.

In fact everything is good, although I do find that I don't like being stared at by sheep.

Later, dudes.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 1

Yesterday's travel "challenges" didn't end with missed bus at Buchanan Station. Never mind why or how but I ended up walking in the deep twilight which passes for darkness here along the top edge of Scotland with the Orkneys just across the water to my left.

I would have pitched my tent in a field but they were all occupied by sheep or cows, and in more than one case a fearsome looking bull.

So it wasn't until I found the Stroma View campsite at one thirty in the morning that I got my head down.

This morning I got up late, almost eleven, and after paying the campsite owner, a thoroughly nice chap from Wimbledon by way of Bournemouth, my four quid camping fee I walked the last mile and a quarter into John O'Groats.

On the way I was passed by a couple of dudes in fancy dress on a tandem who had just cycled up from Lands End.

I had a completely insuitable breakfast of fried egg and flat sausage on a roll from the snack bar and then got changed into running gear.

Three and a half hours and seventeen miles later I'm having a decent portion of chicken curry and rice in the Bridge Cafe in Wick.

Once that settles down I hope to do another 18 miles or so before bedtime.

I'm on my way.

Joemobility to John O'Groats

I love public transport. For me public transport, or 'joemobility', is one of the wonders of the civilized world. Buses, trains, planes, tube trains, if you don't expect them to come and go at your whim, but just relax and go with the flow, it's a great way to travel. Listening in to other peoples conversations, chatting with strangers, reading, dozing - you can't do all that while your driving. At least not without a certain degree of risk.

But every so often this beautiful organic system will turn round and bite you in the arse.

It happened this morning. Long story short, it took me the biggest chunk of three hours to cover the fifteen miles from Newarthill to Glasgow and I missed the Thurso bus by 20 minutes.

Still, no worries, the lady in the booking office at Buchanan Station charged me £1.50 to rebook me on the bus going two hours later and I'm good to go again.

So I had lunch of a Pie Supper (£3.70) and a rather nice takeaway coffee (£1.20) on sunny Sauchiehall Street while I soaked up the atmosphere and a better than indifferent busker covered some excellent songs.

I'm on the bus now and due in Thurso at 9.45 pm so I suspect I may have to wait until tomorrow to do the last 18 miles to John O'Groats.

Anyway, I'm still on track to start running sometime tomorrow morning.

John O'Groats to Lands End - D Day minus 2 (adendum)

Checking my bag again and running through in my mind the absolute necessities for the journey ahead I am appalled to find that I haven't packed a tin opener. Or a spoon. What was I going to do with the sausage and beans - bite my way in.

While the rest of the world is focussed on Swine Flu I am reserving my pandemic-paranoia for Lyme's disease. The tiny bloodsucking ticks which spread this dread malady lurk in the long grasses of the British countryside waiting to attach themselves to passing mammals.

As a mammal that bothers me.

The good news is that ticks can neither fly nor jump. So stay out of the long grass and don't rub yourself up against passing deer or sheep and you should be OK.

The bad news is that if you do spot one of the mites having a meal at your expense and pull the little bugger off it is liable to leave its barbed mouth parts festering in your flesh.

But worry not. Technology has the answer in the form of a little device called a tick twister, a hooked prong which enables you to detach the parasite without leaving any part of it emebedded beneath your skin.

The Chemist didn't stock this useful gadget but the Brannock Veterinary Practice in Newarthill High Street was able to sell me one and I now feel that I am prepared for anything the Scottish
countryside has to throw at me.

John O'Groats to Lands End - D day minus 2

I'm on Motherwell now, at my mum's, base camp for the John O'Groats to Lands End run.

I have bought my bus ticket to Thurso. I'll be leaving Glasgow Friday lunchtime and arriving Thurso that evening, having changed buses at Perth and Inverness. I need to check there's a local bus I can take for the final eighteen miles to John O'Groats.

I start the run Saturday morning, 6th of June.

My running bag, the recently purchased Salomon XA 20, is packed (tent, sleeping bag, inflatable sleeping mat, water bag with about 2 litres of water, towel (actually, I cut my favourite lightweight towel In half so only half a towel really), toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, bugspray, Compeed blister patches (as advertised for use with high heels), compass, squeezable plastic bottle of honey, tin of beans and sausages, the tiniest and brightest of headlamps (a gift from Glenn), scissors, needles and thread, safety pins, wallet containing usual stuff (including an unreasonable amount of cash for buying an unreasonable amount of food along the way), change of clothes (1 pair of socks)).

The iPhone will be attached to my belt, safe from the elements in its waterproof Aquapac.

Fully loaded, the bag tips my mum's bathroom scales at 14 pounds. Perfect!

Karola Gajda, in her dual roles of graphic artist and tireless publicist, has been sending me updates of the flyer for The Road to Endorphia which, of course, has to be ready in plenty of time for the start of the Edinburgh Festival.

So everything is moving forward.

I can't wait to start running.