John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 25 Evening

When I mentioned to the campsite owner at Middleton-in-Teesdale that I was going from John O'Groats to Lands End he gave me my four quid back. Result. So that was a nice start to the day.

At the Conduit Cafe where I had breakfast they have a Pennine Way Walkers visitors book. That made for interesting reading. I wrote a few lines including a plug for the blog and the Edinburgh show.

It has been another great day for running. Not as hot as yesterday, more overcast and even drizzly at times, but still great. And I only got lost a couple of times. It was pretty boggy in places but I think I'm getting used to that.

Eighteen miles in and just before seven in the evening I reached the Tan Hill Inn. Remember, the double glazing ad, the highest pub in Britain. I chugged down four Mars Bars instead of stopping for a meal. But the pub was pretty cute and I did have a lovely cup of tea before jogging the last four, mostly downhill, miles into the little village of Keld.

I bought a couple of things at the campsite shop and pitched my tent so I'm all set for the night.

I'm a bit concerned about my progress. This is day 25 and I don't think I'm quite halfway yet. And I'm doing twenty odd miles a day rather than thirty plus. I mean I'm not desperately worried but it would be nice to have a fair amount of breathing space before the Edinburgh Festival starts. Still that's not till August 8th.

Whatever, no worries.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 24 Evening

I had a lovely evening meal last night of tagliatelle with a mushroom and cream sauce at the Youth Hostel in Dufton. Fanastic. Great company too. Including a couple who are doing Lands End to John O'Groats in instalments. So our paths were crossing about half way.

It had taken me two days to cover the twenty miles from Ashton to Dufton due to getting lost and fogbound etcetera so I was tempted to take to the road this morning just to get some miles done.

But at the last minute I changed my mind and decided to stay on the Pennine Way as being more in the spirit of the thing. Anyway, I'm glad I did. Today was one of the best days so far. Sunshine all day and I was feeling good so most of the 21 miles from Dufton to
Middleton-in-Teesdale were running miles. The terrain was varied, the route clear and some of the scenery stunning. The great glacial gouge of High Cup Nick is just astounding.

I've just had a steak and ale pie with chips and mushy peas in a hotel here and in a minute I'm going to look for the campsite.

I've burned my shoulders by running with my shirt off this afternoon. Otherwise I'm as fit as a fiddle.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 23 Afternoon

When I woke up on Great Dun Fell this morning the fog was as thick as it had been the night before. And it continued that way. I had the last of my food, a tin of beans and sausage for breakfast, and then at about eleven decided I had to make a move.

I packed up the tent and then started to test out the different paths/tracks that had bewildered me the night before. Then, out of the fog loomed four figures. I tried to keep the desparate whine out of my voice as I asked them if they were on the Pennine Way.

They were, and they were able to guide me onto the right track. Did I mention there's a top secret radar installation on top of Great Dun Fell? Anyway, there is. And all I had to do was follow the perimeter fence till I found the tarmac road and follow it downhill. It would be signposted all the way to Dufton.

It wasn't quite as easy as that but it wasn't that difficult either. I got almost lost a couple of more times before I got below the fog just after one in the afternoon and it was downhill and sunshine all the way to Dufton.

I arrived in Dufton at two thirty to find that the Stag, the only pub, stopped doing food at two and didn't start again until six.

OK, I thought I'll get some food from the shop. The shop was closed and had been, the lady next door advised me, since November. Mmm, echoes of Garrigill.

Then the lady offered to make me a pot of tea and a sandwich. Result.

I was enjoying my tea at the table outside the shop when I was joined by two other ladies who were boycotting the pub because on their last visit the landlord had been rude about the effect their muddy boots were having on his brand new ten thousand pound carpet.

Soon there were four of us sitting with our tea outside the defunct shop. This attracted the attention of the pub which was just across the tiny village green. I hope I haven't started a feud.

My new buddies were doing a quiz about famous women and we had fun with that for a while. Then my brother Willie called to say that since I was going to be passing his part of the country, York, he wanted to meet up and go a couple of miles with me. Cool.

I was sorry to see my quiz buddies go in the end. (If any of you read this do drop me a line.) When they left I walked the few yards to the Youth Hostel and waited till five and signed in.

The evening meal is a seven. Perfect.

John O'Groats to Lands End -Day 22 Evening

I started the day in a real Lands-End Here-I-Come kind of a mood. I had a lovely breakfast in the Youth Hostel at Alston in very convivial company. We had a lively discussion about modern sculpture among other things.

I got going about ten thirty and ran along the river the five or so miles down to Garrigill. At eleven fifty I arrived in this tiny settlement where the pub opens only four days a week for five months of the year. As chance would have it, it was ten minutes till opening time so I waited and had a cup of tea. Pretty quiet pub the George and Dragon.

I continued out of Garrigill on towards Cross Fell with some nice uphill running. I managed to lose the path for a while and by the time I found it again I had missed Cross Fell. I know, how can you miss the highest mountain in England outside the Peak District. I just did, OK.

Anyway, I continued along a paved section of the track (hard to get lost) to Little Dun Fell. And then the mist came down like the final curtain. Within minutes visibility was down to yards. This was about six o'clock.

I stayed where I was on the summit of Little Dun Fell for a bit but it didn't look like clearing. Not long after that, by coincidence, one of my breakfast companions happened along. He had just come from the direction I was headed and was able to guide me to the next peak. So I got as far as Great Dun Fell but then the paved section of the track ended and without sight of any other significant landmarks I wasn't getting any further.

About seven thirty I decided to wait it out till morning and pitched the tent right by the track.

I have food and plenty of water and I am warm enough in my sleeping bag.

I'm sure the fog will have cleared by morning and I can head on down to Dufton.

No worries.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 21 Evening

On the wall in reception at the Youth Hostel in Alston, which is where I staying tonight, there is a big map of Britain and, though I am trying real hard, I cannot convince myself that Alston is anywhere near half way down. Have a look yourself.

After a long run of hot weather today was cooler. Overcast in the morning when I set out from the campsite in Greenhead after a quick Mars Bar breakfast. Then drizzly in the afternoon after a functional lunch of beans, cold from the can.

And Northumberland is soggy enough quite frankly. If Britain was a bed Northumberland would be the wet patch. What a soggy, boggy wet place.

But I'm in Cumbria now and Alston in Cumbria has red squirrels. I even saw one. Then I saw a sign which gave a number to call if you see any grey squirrels. That's right, if you see a grey squirrel you're supposed to grass it up.

When I arrived in Alston at about 6pm after 18 miles of being lost in a bog I had had enough. By the way, have you ever tried to run in a bog? I know, I'm whinging.

Anyway, I went straight into the Cumberland Hotel and, remembering last evening's feast, ordered lasagne. Well it was very nice but with the little side salad and a little roll just NOT BIG ENOUGH. So I followed it with lemon cheesecake and ice cream, again very nice but NOT BIG ENOUGH!

So I'm sitting in the Youth Hostel topping up with chocolate bars

Highlight of the day was the little old lady who ran the campsite in Greenhead. I paid her my four pounds on coins and then as we chatted she started giving it back to me. I mentioned I had come all the way from John O'Groats and she slipped me a quid for that. When I said I
had eaten in the Hotel the night before she made me take another quid back, "because everything is so expensive." Not her campsite, it's not. I had to scarper before she ended up making a loss.

My trekking pants have developed a sweat stain which makes it look as though I have pissed myself. They are in the washing machine right now but it has been an embarrassing couple of days.

I'm looking forward to a night in a comfortable bed. I've ordered porridge and the veggie breakfast for tomorrow morning. I think the Belly Busters might have been slowing me down. Although I'm fairly sure I haven't lost any weight yet.

Later, amigos.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 20 Evening

Yesteday afternoon it took me 6 hours to do the 15 miles from Byrness to Bellingham. In Bellingham there was no sit down food to be had after 9. Had to settle for sausage and chips takeaway.

I paid five quid to camp at Demesne Farm campsite and found out next morning it was another 50p for a 6 minute shower. What did I get for my five quid?

Belly Buster breakfast at the Caff in the Library at Bellingham. Followed it with cheesecake and ice cream. It was after noon when I eventually got on the road.

Trekked thirteen and a half miles south to Hadrian's Wall. Hard going with the Belly Buster on board, alternatively soggy or rocky or heathery underfoot, and the route was all chopping and changing. I just couldn't get it going.

At Hadrian's Wall all of that changed. The food was digested, the route was easier to follow and the views were stunning as I ran along the northern frontier of the Roman Empire.

There was nobody else in sight and I felt like a wild Pict having a look around the day after the legionaries went back to Rome.

Nine thirty when I arrived at Greenhead pretty beat. Kitchen closed at the Greenhead Hotel but they managed to put together a big plate of lasagne and veg.

I think there's a campsite in town.

More later.

John O'Groats to Lands End - Day 19 Lunchtime

Injury Update: left foot has been perfect for a few days now except for a recent blister on the sole, right foot is about 95% and getting better, slight sunburn to face, arms and legs - haha.

Getting lost last night meant that I had no food for supper or breakfast. It took me three hours to cross the wild and soggy Northumbrian moors between Chew Green and Byrness so by the time I reached The Filling Station Cafe "The First and Last in England" I was ready for the big breakfast. It's a measure of my hunger that I actually ate the black pudding.

O yeah, I crossed the border into England last night at about 9pm. Where I crossed, the frontier was just a farm gate. There was no guard or customs or anything, this was the middle of nowhere in the Cheviot Hills after all, but the Northumbrian Council must have known I was coming because they had left a note advising me that countryside access legislation is different in England from what it is in Scotland. I think they were referring to my wild camping habits.
Anyway, they ended by wishing me a pleasant day on the hills so thanks for that.

I've just followed the black pudding breakfast with a bit of rather soggy cheesecake. Very soggy place Northumbria. Thank goodness it isn't raining.

Almost 1.30pm and I'm about to stock up with food and water and do the 15 miles between here and Bellingham.

See ya later!